Aquaponics Digest - Tue 05/16/00
Message 1: Re: pH control
from "Steve"
Message 2: Re: pH control
from "Steve"
Message 3: Re: Request for Organic Solution recipes
from Doug Peckenpaugh
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| Message 1 |
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Subject: Re: pH control
From: "Steve"
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:04:49 -0500
I have no water exchange rate Marc. I was not fortunate enough to hit a
spring when we dug the pond.
SS
----- Original Message -----
From: "LABERGE MARC"
To: "aqua"
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 6:29 PM
Subject: pH control
> << I read a chart that shows un-ionized ammonia is directly related to
temp.
> and pH. Well, there is nothing I can do about the temp. The pH of the pond
> was 9.5 +/-. I am trying to get the pH down to apprx. 7.0. I have been
> adding muriatic acid. I have added 10 gal so far and the pH is down to
8.5.
> >>
>
> Steve , an important factor you did not mention is your water exchange
rate
> ( pond renewal time ) , if your renewal is a couple of days , wouldn't
you
> constantly be fighting your pH ?
>
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| Message 2 |
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Subject: Re: pH control
From: "Steve"
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:10:20 -0500
Hi Wendy,
How does "hundreds of dead fish" sound like for a reason?
We had a terrible drought in Wisconsin last year. My pond is not
"spring-fed" It receives "new water' by rainfall and groundwater. The water
level of the pond was down by about 5-7 ft. All of the fish were dying by
nitrite poisoning. I can only control this by pH and temp. So, I adjusted
the pH and they are fine.
By the way, on a happy note, it has been raining almost every day and the
pond is almost up to natural levels. "Mother Nature" finds a way...as Jeff
Goldblum would say.
Thanks for responding.......Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wendy Nagurny"
To: "Aquaponics"
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: pH control
> Hi Steve,
>
> My first question is why do you want to lower your pH? Do you wish to add
> some species the requires a lower pH? Shifting the pH in a natural body
of
> water is a never ending struggle as it will always want to go back to its
> natural balance. The pH of water (whether it is in a pond or in a tank)
is
> an effect of other parameters such as the water hardness and metabolism of
> the species already within the system. Just adding something to "adjust
the
> pH" without addressing these other parameters will just cause frustration
> and a bunch of dead species. Usually for a pH that high, the water will
> also be quite hard which acts as buffering. You will need to add a lot of
> something acid to cause any permanent (temporary shifts will be seen, but
> the pH will rebound). This can be likened to treating the fever
associated
> with a bad infection with aspirin without addressing the infection. The
> body
> temp will lower, but jump back up when the aspirin wears off. You must
deal
> with the infection if you want the body temp to stay down. First, the
water
> must be softened by removing the the mineral content of the water. In a
> tank this is as easy as making partial water changes with distilled water.
> Here, the pH may just shift down itself. Not an easy feat in a pond which
> may have access to virtually unlimited minerals. What I'm trying to get
at
> is, you must really NEED to lower your pH to even bother. Why do you want
> to lower your pH?
>
> Wendy
>
>
> >Hi Gang,
> >
> >I need to ask a question that is "somewhat" unrelated to aquaponics or
> >hydroponics.
> >
> >I have a pond that is apprx. 1/4 - 1/3 acre and probably averages 5' in
> >depth. (I have a shallow end that is inches and a deep center that is
> apprx.
> >12'.) I was not fortunate enough to hit a spring when I had the pond dug.
> >Therefore, all water is from ground water.
> >
> >I read a chart that shows un-ionized ammonia is directly related to temp.
> >and pH. Well, there is nothing I can do about the temp. The pH of the
pond
> >was 9.5 +/-. I am trying to get the pH down to apprx. 7.0. I have been
> >adding muriatic acid. I have added 10 gal so far and the pH is down to
8.5.
> >
> >I am adding the acid a gallon at a time at a cost of $2.37/gal. Anyone
have
> >any suggestions as to a better way to do this?
> >
> >Thanks.......Steve
> >
> >
>
>
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Subject: Re: Request for Organic Solution recipes
From: Doug Peckenpaugh
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:41:49 -0700
Eli:
I do not, by any means, have many answers for how to use organic materials in
hydroponics or aquaponics. This research is still ongoing and any attempts at
"organo-ponics"--in regard to both nutrient composition and pest and disease
control measures--should be undertaken in the light of study and small-scale
experimentation. But more proven success stories are revealed in this area all
the time--especially from the pest and disease camp.
I have heard about worm castings being used in nutrient solution. It seems to
work fairly well. Worm castings that have been created in a soilless environment
are placed in a fine mesh bag and steeped in hydroponic-ready water. As always,
it's important to make sure that soil cannot get into the solution. After the
solution takes on tea-like qualities, it's filtered to remove any solid material
and can then be amended with other organic substances. By itself, worm casting
solution is said to be good for use during the bloom stage for vegetables. One
researcher I came into contact with was using castings in his growing media as
part of a (very) hybrid aquaponic setup. I have not heard about anyone
introducing worm castings into a closed-loop recirculating aquaponic system.
Likewise, I havn't heard if there would be any adverse reactions in the aquatic
environment from using castings. Again, I need more information in this area.
This subject is pretty hot on my desk these days--more to come in the future.
Doug Peckenpaugh
Elisheva Ruth wrote:
> What are recommended organic growing recipes?
> If one adds in earthworm castings, or such heavier matter,
> how would this effect a recirc system and fish needs?
> Eli
>
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