Aquaponics Digest - Wed 02/17/99
Message 1: Re: greywater and soaps
from jilli and lars
Message 2: Re: request for nutrient supplier
from jilli and lars
Message 3: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
from "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Message 4: snails
from "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Message 5: feasability question about yellow perch
from "carol busson"
Message 6: Water quality for various critters, was Re: Tilapia Tank
Culture
from S & S Aqua Farm
Message 7: Re: Tilapia Tank Culture
from S & S Aqua Farm
Message 8: Re: Greywater Resources
from jilli and lars
Message 9: Re: greywater and soaps
from jilli and lars
Message 10: re: feasability question about yellow perch
from PeterJTheisen@eaton.com
Message 11: Re: greywater and soaps
from "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Message 12: Re: snails
from jilli and lars
Message 13: Re: Water quality for various critters, was Re: Tilapia Tank
Culture
from jilli and lars
Message 14: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
from jilli and lars
Message 15: RE: Tilapia Tank Culture (James Rakocy)
from Alejandro Gallardo Valencia
Message 16: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
from KLOTTTRUE
Message 17: Re: greywater and soaps
from William Evans
Message 18: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
from jilli and lars
Message 19: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
from KLOTTTRUE
Message 20: Re: unsubscribe
from "John Phillips"
Message 21: (no subject)
from Jack Allen
Message 22:
from Alan Lloyd
Message 23: Re: feasability question about yellow perch
from "Dale Robinson"
Message 24: Re: Solar Cells in production
from PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Message 25: Re: Solar Cells in production
from PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Message 26: Re: Solar Cells in production
from Michael Strates
Message 27: Re: request for nutrient supplier
from PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Message 28: Michael's Urine Ideas
from Michael Strates
Message 29: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
from Dave Miller
Message 30: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
from Michael Strates
Message 31: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
from Dave Miller
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| Message 1 |
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Subject: Re: greywater and soaps
From: jilli and lars
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:36:00 -0800
William Evans wrote:
> Avoid those w/ borax!!!!! Necessary but only in very small
> quantities.Prolly would OD after one wash.
> billevans
thanks bill - I guess what you mean is that borax is a trace substance
which is found in most water sources in sufficient quantities. Yes? Like
boron, for example?
lars
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| Message 2 |
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Subject: Re: request for nutrient supplier
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 00:00:12 -0800
Hi jean -
MS JEAN R SHAFFER wrote:
> Dear Lars
>
> Thank you.. I am not squeemish about worms. I have been collecting
> worms as of late, as I transplant trees, ect, to an abandoned
> pasture I'm trying to restore back to it's natural forest state.
mmm. sounds interesting. and fulfilling.
> I
> hope regular old wild native worms are the right kind?
Actually, they're not. Compost worms, also known as red wigglers, are
different from regular earthworms. I'm not sure how they got different,
I've heard some people say that they are a fully domestic variety. They
are quite soft compared to wild earthworms, I guess because of too much
easy livin'. Red wigglers will _not_ survive in normal soil, for
example. They are adapted to the moist (even wet), nutrient rich
environment of compost heaps. As others have mentioned, they can even
survive in water, which i don't believe normal worms can live in, (i
remember seeing lots of dead worms in puddles when i was a kid).If
you've got an organic grocery store in your 'hood, you can probably buy
them there, or if you know someone who has a long established compost
pile, you can ask them for a 'starter culture' (if you're ever in
'frisco, i'll give you a handful!).
I hate pushing products, but the Reln Wriggly Wranch is damn
good. I got mine on sale for about 30 bucks US, and that price is
practically worth it for the very in-depth 'operators manual'. I had
originally built one myself out of one of those 30 gallon plastic
storage bins, but it went anaerobic and smelly very easily. The wriggly
wranch (or any similar design), once well established, can handle the
vegetable wastes from 2 people quite easily, under good conditions. I
recommend you keep them indoors. Think of it as a pet - within a year
you can have 15 pounds of worms which can eat half their body weight
every day! If well maintained, you won't have any problems. I promise.
We love our Worm. Our orchids and other houseplants love Worm as well.
have fun,
lars
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| Message 3 |
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Subject: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
From: "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 07:38:29 -0700 (MST)
You said:"Clown loaches and rasboras"
____________________________________________________________________
Lars: What are they and do they help the treatment of greywater or help in
any other way with aquaponics or hydroponics? I have now added compost
worms to my hydroponic troughs (gravel) and will be monitoring their
progress. Jorg Ostrowski
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| Message 4 |
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Subject: snails
From: "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 07:48:24 -0700 (MST)
You said: "Apple snails are a good indicator of dissolved oxygen as they
only bother to come to the surface to breath when the D.O. levels are low
(they use their gill when DO levels are sufficient)."
__________________________________________________________________________
Lars et al: Are all snails good indicators of dissolved oxygen? That means
that when they get out of the water, DO is too low? I have both local
outdoor snails, ramshorn snails (brown) and those big striped-on-one-side
snails (don't know real name yet). Do they also have lungs or labyrinth
organs? Jorg Ostrowski
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| Message 5 |
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Subject: feasability question about yellow perch
From: "carol busson"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 11:39:04 -0500
Hello;
I am in Ohio, just talked to a local guy who does recirculation fish
farming. Trout, walleye, and yellow perch, the yellow perch being the ones
I am interested in. He was fairly scornful of the whole aquaponiker notion.
His son, he was quick to tell me, is a PhD and he (the son) is CERTAIN that
there isn't a chance of it working. ie: water quality good enough for fish
won't support plant life, water that will support plant life will kill the
fish. Confusion sets in. I am setting this up in April and need advice.
Is there the slightest chance of this working? Are you folks actually
growing fish? My plan is for a 12' diameter tank and 2 - 3 4'x8' growing
beds. Are perch specificly likely to succeed? For me this is a method of
farm diversification and if it won't be financially on the plus side there
is no reason to go on with my plans. Comments? Is this local yokel just
uninformed?
thanks, Carol
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| Message 6 |
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Subject: Water quality for various critters, was Re: Tilapia Tank
Culture
From: S & S Aqua Farm
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 12:14:29 -0600
At 06:32 PM 2/16/99 EST, Ken wrote:
>I have read about the minimum and optimum temperatures for raising Tilapia,but
>does anyone know the maximum temperature these fish can tolerate?
Ken - here's a post from Ted Ground which lists water quality/temp
conditions for several species. Paula
-------------------------------
From: "Ted Ground"
To:
Subject: Water quality for various critters
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 08:10:33 -0500
These water quality guidelines apply to some commonly cultured
aquaculture species, listed below.
These are generalizations that represent ranges acceptable for health and
growth, and do not represent lethal limits. Tolerance levels vary greatly
depending on a variety of factors. Depending on who you talk to or read
reports from, you will get different numbers. Kinda like the weather or
politics, I guess.
TROUT: Temp 45 - 68F (7 - 20C); D.O. 5 -12 mg/L (ppm); pH 5.5 - 8;
Alkalinity
50 - 250 ppm; CO2 0 - 20ppm; Un-Ionized Ammonia 0 - 0.02ppm; Nitrite 0 -
0.2ppm; Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity 0 - 3 ppt
(parts per thousand)
HYBRID STRIPED BASS: Temp 70 - 85F (21 - 29C); DO 4 - 10 ppm; pH 6 - 8;
Alkalinity 50 - 250ppm CO2 0 - 25ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.03 ppm;
Nitrite 0 - 0.8ppm; Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity
0 - 3ppt
(I know from personal experience that hybrid striped bass can be raised at
much higher salinities- 15 to 17 ppt)
TILAPIA: Temp 75 - 90F (24 - 32 C); DO 3 - 10 ppm; pH 6 - 8; Alkalinity 50
- 250ppm; CO2 0 -30ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.04 ppm; Nitrite 0 - 0.8ppm;
Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 5000ppm; Salinity 0 - 15 ppt
FRESHWATER SHRIMP (PRAWNS): Temp 68 - 80F (20 - 27C); DO 4 - 10ppm; pH 6.5
- 9; Alkalinity 60 -100ppm; CO2 0 - 20ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.05ppm;
Nitrite 0 - 0.9ppm; Hardness 60 - 250ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity 0
- 3ppt
Fish will excrete about 14 grams of ammonia for each pound of food eaten
(assuming a 35% protein diet). Test kits read total ammonia. The numbers
for ammonia given above are for unionized ammonia. You have to run the
numbers through a formula or chart to convert to unionized ammonia, which
reflects the equilibrium and dissociation of unionized ammonia with
ionized" ammonium, which is affected by pH and temperature. Generally, the
higher the pH and temperature, the higher the percentage of unionized
ammonia to total ammonia.
Again, these are just rules of thumb. Aquarium hobbyists and aquaculturists
will likely divide on these numbers- the set levels or tolerances. Several
factors right at the edge of the tolerance limits can combine to add stress
to the point of crop failure.
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| Message 7 |
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Subject: Re: Tilapia Tank Culture
From: S & S Aqua Farm
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 12:15:49 -0600
At 06:32 PM 2/16/99 EST, Ken wrote:
Also do the
>tanks need to have a gravel or sand bottom. Thanks Ken
Using a smooth-bottomed tank will facilitate solids removal.
Paula
S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775 417-256-5124
Web page http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/
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| Message 8 |
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Subject: Re: Greywater Resources
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 09:43:37 -0800
Dave -
thanks a trillion for those urls. I haven't actually checked them out
yet - its quite a lot of stuff. But i'm sure I'll find what I'm looking for.
Thanks also for that tip on different spellings of 'greywater'.
> I would be interested in other sites especially where greywater can be
> used for growing purposes or at least how to minimize what can be dumped
> into water safely then reused.
I'll keep an eye out for relevant stuff, and I'll compare my bookmarks to
yours.
> I make my own soap using various oils and and lye and I am looking to
> collect wood ash to make my own potassium lye solution.
So you're trying to make potassium hydroxide as opposed to sodium hydroxide?
> The residue in
> greywater would be safer for garden use. I'm not sure how it would
> affect an aquaponic or hydroponic system but I would believe it would
> break down safer with less salts or other residues.
I can see this is starting to veer a little off topic. Can you please tell me
(via private email) how one would go about making potassium hydroxide out of
wood ash? My partner is actually the soapmaker - she has made soap using lye,
olive oils and other oils - it was very successul.. It would be great to make
our own potassium lye.
Thank you so much for this information.
lars fields
>
>
> I welcome the group's collective thoughts.
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| Message 9 |
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Subject: Re: greywater and soaps
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 10:23:21 -0800
hi jorg -
Jorg D. Ostrowski wrote:
thanks a lot for the details about your soap. I guess the important word is:
_potassium-based_ cleaners.
> Two people use 11 litres of water per day. Our GreyWater GardenWall is a very
> small solar aquatic system meant to handle 200 l/day.
Your system can handle 200 liters a day? But you say you only produce 11
liters a
day. Why are those numbers so different?
> Our planter boxes
> with subirrigation serve as option number 2.
So that's a soil-based backup, i guess? Am i understanding you?
> Two slow sand filters did not
> work out very well,
Were those sand filters supposed to be used for reclaiming drinking water? Have
you had any experience with a solar still for purifying water? How do they work?
> and I would like to convert them into a
> vermicomposting/sand/activated charcoal greywater filter if it gets
> designed (perhaps as a group effort on this listserver?) and built.
I'm currently designing and building my 'frog module/shower' using 3d
software. The process is working very well. I started design in january and I
should be finished (actually) building the entire thing by april at the latest.
The computer greatly aids the integration of odd found materials, dimensional
lumber and manufactured items. I made 3d models of all the objects in the
program (like a 55 gallon fishtank, for example, or 4 large window panes of
various odd dimensions) and tested various orientations to make all the
parts fit
together. I then worked from the finished 3d 'plan' to get the amount and
dimensions for the lumber. The main stucture is now complete and I collected
rainwater for the 55 gallon tank last night.
I'm still very amazed that this frogmodule/shower-on-wheels was barely an
idea in my head in december, and now it's standing, larger (much) than life
behind me.
What do you want this vermicomposting/sand/activated charcoal greywater
filter to do? Ie. what's going in and what do you want to come out?
Lars
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| Message 10 |
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Subject: re: feasability question about yellow perch
From: PeterJTheisen@eaton.com
Date: 17 Feb 99 12:58:22 EST
Yellow perch, Walleye and Trout are very sensitive to water quality, that
is require a higher level of water quality than say tilapia to thrive.
This could be part of the issue. With Tilapia culture it is not an isuse
to have a nutrient level in the water the is sufficient for plant growth
and still have robust fish growth.
Pete T.
-------------
Original Text
From: C=US/A=INTERNET/DDA=ID/aquaponics(a)townsqr.com, on 2/17/99 10:42 AM:
Hello;
I am in Ohio, just talked to a local guy who does recirculation fish
farming. Trout, walleye, and yellow perch, the yellow perch being the ones
I am interested in. He was fairly scornful of the whole aquaponiker
notion.
His son, he was quick to tell me, is a PhD and he (the son) is CERTAIN that
there isn't a chance of it working. ie: water quality good enough for
fish
won't support plant life, water that will support plant life will kill the
fish. Confusion sets in. I am setting this up in April and need advice.
Is there the slightest chance of this working? Are you folks actually
growing fish? My plan is for a 12' diameter tank and 2 - 3 4'x8' growing
beds. Are perch specificly likely to succeed? For me this is a method of
farm diversification and if it won't be financially on the plus side there
is no reason to go on with my plans. Comments? Is this local yokel just
uninformed?
thanks, Carol
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| Message 11 |
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Subject: Re: greywater and soaps
From: "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 12:21:43 -0700 (MST)
Lars: Please see comments below.
_________________________________
On Wed, 17 Feb 1999, jilli and lars wrote:
> > Two people use 11 litres of water per day. Our GreyWater GardenWall is a
very
> > small solar aquatic system meant to handle 200 l/day.
> Your system can handle 200 liters a day? But you say you only produce 11
liters a
> day. Why are those numbers so different?
- A conserving family would use 200 L/day. The 2 of us are trying to set a
benchmark (a lower limit).
>
> > Our planter boxes
> > with subirrigation serve as option number 2.
> So that's a soil-based backup, i guess? Am i understanding you?
- Yes soil based.
> > Two slow sand filters did not
> > work out very well,
> Were those sand filters supposed to be used for reclaiming drinking water?
Have
> you had any experience with a solar still for purifying water? How do they
work?
- We do use a slow sand filter for drinking water (off the roof), but we
set up another 2 to treat greywater as our 3 independent system to see
what problems it would encounter and how to alter the design.
>
> > and I would like to convert them into a
> > vermicomposting/sand/activated charcoal greywater filter if it gets
> > designed (perhaps as a group effort on this listserver?) and built.
>
> I'm currently designing and building my 'frog module/shower' using 3d
> software. The process is working very well. I started design in january and I
> should be finished (actually) building the entire thing by april at the
latest.
> The computer greatly aids the integration of odd found materials, dimensional
> lumber and manufactured items. I made 3d models of all the objects in the
> program (like a 55 gallon fishtank, for example, or 4 large window panes of
> various odd dimensions) and tested various orientations to make all the
parts fit
> together. I then worked from the finished 3d 'plan' to get the amount and
> dimensions for the lumber. The main stucture is now complete and I collected
> rainwater for the 55 gallon tank last night.
> I'm still very amazed that this frogmodule/shower-on-wheels was barely an
> idea in my head in december, and now it's standing, larger (much) than life
> behind me.
>
> What do you want this vermicomposting/sand/activated charcoal
greywater
> filter to do? Ie. what's going in and what do you want to come out?
- I would like it to clean greywater to reuse standards in a tight area.
Jorg Ostrowski
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| Message 12 |
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Subject: Re: snails
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 11:35:41 -0800
hi jorg -
Jorg D. Ostrowski wrote:
> You said: "Apple snails are a good indicator of dissolved oxygen as they
> only bother to come to the surface to breath when the D.O. levels are low
> (they use their gill when DO levels are sufficient)."
> __________________________________________________________________________
> Lars et al: Are all snails good indicators of dissolved oxygen? That means
> that when they get out of the water, DO is too low? I have both local
> outdoor snails, ramshorn snails (brown) and those big striped-on-one-side
> snails (don't know real name yet). Do they also have lungs or labyrinth
> organs? Jorg Ostrowski
"those big striped-on-one-side" sounds like apple snails to me. I
imagine all creatures can be good indicators of dissolved oxygen, if you know
what behaviors to look for. However, apple snails are obvious about it, so
they are easier to 'read'.
Apple snails are unique in that they have one 'lung' and one gill.
They use their gill when they are in water with high DO, but they can use
their lung if they find themselves in stagnant pools with low DO. They do this
by coming up _near_ the surface and extending a long tube. When the tube
breaks the surface, you can see them 'gulping' air into their lung through
this tube. I don't know if it is technically a lung or labyrith organ or what,
but it funtions like one.
If your apple snails are actually climbing *out* of the water it can
mean several things - either they are trying to escape really bad conditions,
or they are trying to find food, or they are looking for a place to lay eggs.
If you notice them trying to come out when you add a dose of
greywater, this is bad - they don't like soapy water -it stings them - imagine
if your entire body felt like an eyeball with soap in it - ouch! I made that
mistake once.
If you notice them trying to come out at night, every night (they are
mostly nocturnal), my guess is that they are probably looking for food. Apple
snails have quite big appetites and like something besides the algae on the
side of the tank. They'll eat almost any vegetable. spinach and cucumbers are
good staples. I've even seem them go to work on a dead fish.
If you've only seem them climb out occasionally, look on the
undersides of things in your system, like under leaves or shelves etc. If you
see a mass of little lime-green balls, that's their eggs - start passing the
cigars, papa! Apple snails lay their eggs above the waterline. Mine laid eggs
under the rim of my tank, but the conditions were too dry and they became
dessicated (though it is normal for those on the outside of the mass to dry
out). You might want to move them to a more humid environment. Check that
website i mentioned for more details. Unlike most snails, they aren't
hermaphrodites, but females seem to be able to store sperm, so even if you
only have one, you could get more. The eggs might be a different color than
green, also, as their are so many vareties.
Look really close at the ends of their eyestalks (the small, stubby
stalks near the long feeler stalks, not the mouth stalks). Can you see the
eye? Pretty neat, huh? Reminds you that snails, squids, and octopi are
related. I've heard that octopi are about as smart as cats - makes wonder
about apple snails.
lars
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| Message 13 |
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Subject: Re: Water quality for various critters, was Re: Tilapia Tank
Culture
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 11:39:36 -0800
Thank you paula,
and thank you ted, wherever you are....
S & S Aqua Farm wrote:
> Ken - here's a post from Ted Ground which lists water quality/temp
> conditions for several species. Paula
cut
S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775 417-256-5124
Web page http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/
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| Message 14 |
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Subject: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 11:03:08 -0800
Jorg D. Ostrowski wrote:
> You said:"Clown loaches and rasboras"
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Lars: What are they and do they help the treatment of greywater or help in
> any other way with aquaponics or hydroponics? I have now added compost
> worms to my hydroponic troughs (gravel) and will be monitoring their
> progress. Jorg Ostrowski
> ________________________________________________________________________
Clown loaches are a kind of fish. They are from Borneo and Sumatra.
The main reason
I got interested in them was that they eat small snails. Since my system
'produces' snails,
I thought that would help round out my little 'ecosystem'. I got more
interested in them
because they are beautiful, wonderful fish. They seem to be more intelligent
than other
fish, and i'm not the only person to think so. I've heard they can recognize
particular
people. They can also live up to 45 years in captivity. The main
problem with them
is that they are all wild-caught, so of you get some they are very likely
wild-caught. I
really try to stick with captive-bred species, as i don't wish to aid in
species depletion.
However, people have recently started to figure out how to breed them, and
i'm seeing more
and more reports on breeding in aquaria.
They are relatively sensitive fish (especially to salt), so i'm not
going to get
some until i'm sure my system is safe for them. I also don't want to get any
until i'm
reasonably sure I can breed them. They are really only happy in schools,
preferably at
least 5 individuals (odd numbered schools do best, apparently, as well).
They also get big
- up to 14 inches!, so if you get some, plan on some serious expansion plans
as they and
your system grows. As they are highly intelligent, they need lots of space -
only put them
in big tank, 55 gallon for 5 fish minimum. They also like hiding spaces - at
least one per
individual. They are not usually agressive to others of similar size.
If you are planning on getting some, please research them carefully
and keep an eye
out for captive-breds.
Here are a couple of clown loach links:
http://aquaweb.pair.com/LOACH/index.shtml
http://fishlinkcentral.com/
Does anybody know of any other fish which eat snails? I believe many in the
botia family
are snail eaters, but i haven't found many details yet. Clown loaches have
the biggest
reputation for that activity.
rasboras are fish from the same biotope, known as 'southeast asian
blackwater'. I'm
not as interested in rasboras (yet), i thought i'd add them for company -
make the loaches
feel at home. Many labyrinth fishes (like pearl gouramis) come from that
biotope as well.
This is a slow-moving, high organic content, peat-colored, slightly acidic,
soft-water
environment.
lars
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| Message 15 |
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Subject: RE: Tilapia Tank Culture (James Rakocy)
From: Alejandro Gallardo Valencia
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 13:29:36 -0600
You=B4re right, it won=B4t be easy but it's worth the effort, plus, it =
keeps my blood pumping and my mind running so, here I go...
I have (sorry to be such a bother) two more questions I hope you or any =
one in the list can answer:
How often can the same brooders be used and for how long (having =
intensive culture in mind)?
Can fish be tagged or by any other mean marked for id? How?
Thanks.
Best regards.
Alejandro
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| Message 16 |
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Subject: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
From: KLOTTTRUE
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 16:11:06 EST
Lars wrote,does anybody know any other fish that eat snails.Red eared Bream (
Shellcrackers ) do. Ken
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| Message 17 |
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Subject: Re: greywater and soaps
From: William Evans
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 14:02:39 -0800
borax is compound w/ boron (element)in it
jilli and lars wrote:
>
> William Evans wrote:
>
> > Avoid those w/ borax!!!!! Necessary but only in very small
> > quantities.Prolly would OD after one wash.
> > billevans
>
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| Message 18 |
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Subject: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
From: jilli and lars
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 15:22:40 -0800
KLOTTTRUE wrote:
> Lars wrote,does anybody know any other fish that eat snails.Red eared Bream (
> Shellcrackers ) do. Ken
thanks a lot, ken. I'll do some research on them soon, but are those the fish we
used to call 'sunnies' as a kid?
lars
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| Message 19 |
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Subject: Re: compost tea for hydroponics
From: KLOTTTRUE
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 19:10:52 EST
Lars wrote looking for snail eaters,Lars go to http://www.Combat-Fishing.com
,good site for salt & fresh water fishes info with pictures.Ken
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| Message 20 |
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Subject: Re: unsubscribe
From: "John Phillips"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 18:52:43 -0000
unsubscribe
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| Message 21 |
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Subject: (no subject)
From: Jack Allen
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 20:59:48 -0500
unsubscribe
--
What's the difference between ignorance and indifference? I don't know
and I don't care.
ICQ: 3219552
Jack
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| Message 22 |
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Subject:
From: Alan Lloyd
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:06:14 +1100
unsubscribe
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| Message 23 |
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Subject: Re: feasability question about yellow perch
From: "Dale Robinson"
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 21:12:51 -0600
Caral wrote:
>Hello;
>I am in Ohio, just talked to a local guy who does recirculation fish
>farming. Trout, walleye, and yellow perch, the yellow perch being the ones
>I am interested in. He was fairly scornful of the whole aquaponiker
notion.
>His son, he was quick to tell me, is a PhD and he (the son) is CERTAIN that
>there isn't a chance of it working. ie: water quality good enough for
fish
>won't support plant life, water that will support plant life will kill the
>fish. Confusion sets in. I am setting this up in April and need advice.
>Is there the slightest chance of this working? Are you folks actually
>growing fish? My plan is for a 12' diameter tank and 2 - 3 4'x8' growing
>beds. Are perch specificly likely to succeed? For me this is a method of
>farm diversification and if it won't be financially on the plus side there
>is no reason to go on with my plans. Comments? Is this local yokel just
>uninformed?
>
>thanks, Carol
I don't know much about yellow perch other then catching a few through the
Ice.
If yellow perch can take the high temperatures that is required by plants
then their OK. Plants require water temperatures from 55 to 80 degrees
F.(depending on the crop be raised). If you were to chose a crop like water
cress that don't mind cooler temperatures I think it might work. If you
want to grow tomatoes, well that's another story.
The fish of choice is one that does well in warm water. Perch taste good
from cold water but may not taste well when raised in warm water.
Best regards
Dale Robinson
mwhydroponics@worldnet.att.net
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| Message 24 |
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Subject: Re: Solar Cells in production
From: PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 23:37:30, -0500
Dear Joel
Yes I had planned to manually do the buckets, so how does this wick
system work? It sounds ideal. Please explain.
Jean
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| Message 25 |
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Subject: Re: Solar Cells in production
From: PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 23:45:13, -0500
So Michael
Are you telling me my perlite depth is an overkill? What do you
think is the ideal depth? And am I hearing correctly that every one
responding on this list are saying that the solution should come up
and stop within an inch of the top? thank you for the URL address of
the perlite institute.
Jean
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| Message 26 |
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Subject: Re: Solar Cells in production
From: Michael Strates
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 03:07:03 +1100 (EST)
On Wed, 17 Feb 1999, MS JEAN R SHAFFER wrote:
MJRS> Are you telling me my perlite depth is an overkill? What do
MJRS> you think is the ideal depth? And am I hearing correctly that
MJRS> every one responding on this list are saying that the solution
Don't let the nutrient solution touch the top 1/4in of the top, and you'll
be fine. I recommend using a gallon bucket filled with perlite for growing
tomatoes.. even soda pop bottles do well for smaller things like
strawberries and lettuce.
--
e-mail: mstrates@croftj.net www: http://www.croftj.net/~mstrates
See keyservers for PGP info. Linux! The OS of my Choice!
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned
skyward, for there you have been, and there you long to return."
- Leonardo da Vinci, and below an extract from John Fogerty's song:
Hey, Tonight - Gonna be tonight- Don't you know I'm flyin'- Tonight
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| Message 27 |
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Subject: Re: request for nutrient supplier
From: PHRL33A@prodigy.com (MS JEAN R SHAFFER)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 00:07:29, -0500
Dear Lars
Could you give me an email address or snail mail one for the Reln
Wriggly Wranch.
Best
Jean
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| Message 28 |
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Subject: Michael's Urine Ideas
From: Michael Strates
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 03:14:06 +1100 (EST)
Okay... Here's my prototype:
A urine collection funnel is mounted above the collection tank (an old
plastic aquarium). Inside of the aquarium are several airstones and a
biological filter made out of a coca-cola bottle.
The odorless nitrate + sodium and other salts is passed after day seven
days of intense biological filtration and aeration into a bed where clover
is going. The clover uses the nitrate in the week's batch of urine, also
fixes nitrogen from the air and then dies once all of the nutrients have
been used up in the solution.
The clover is then harvested and placed in the worm farm, where it
provides useful biomass and eventually sodium free nutrients as it does
not absorb big quantities of sodium chloride.
How does this sound??
--
e-mail: mstrates@croftj.net www: http://www.croftj.net/~mstrates
See keyservers for PGP info. Linux! The OS of my Choice!
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned
skyward, for there you have been, and there you long to return."
- Leonardo da Vinci, and below an extract from John Fogerty's song:
Hey, Tonight - Gonna be tonight- Don't you know I'm flyin'- Tonight
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| Message 29 |
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Subject: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
From: Dave Miller
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 00:30:43 -0500
Michael,
I like it but would love if you could share how the filter works, ie how
is it constructed and where the 7 days comes from. I am planning to get
worms so this is very interesting to me for my organic garden (personal
use at this point). As a veggie I trust my own urine and certainly the
worms can filter the rest.
--
Dave
_______________________________________
«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
A "green" home remodeler
A father of 2 cockatiels
An organic farmer
A veggie drummer/keyboardist
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| Message 30 |
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Subject: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
From: Michael Strates
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 03:39:06 +1100 (EST)
On Thu, 18 Feb 1999, Dave Miller wrote:
DM> I like it but would love if you could share how the filter works, ie how
DM> is it constructed and where the 7 days comes from. I am planning to get
DM> worms so this is very interesting to me for my organic garden (personal
DM> use at this point). As a veggie I trust my own urine and certainly the
DM> worms can filter the rest.
coke bottle filled with filter floss with a few holes in the bottom. A
pipe goes in the top which pumps the uhhh.. nutrient onto the floss and it
exits from the bottom. Bacteria grow on the medium and they turn the urea
into nitrite and then into nitrate.
I used 7 days as a convention to make sure that all filtration had taken
place, and you were left with a good end product. As a precaution, the
processed urine is left to evaporate over the last few days into a
powder.. this would kill all bacteria and also make it convenient so you
could even package it for a later date if you wanted to.
I do the same with worm castings.. I leach all of the nutrients into
water, then filter the water and evaporate the water so that you're left
with a completely soluble nutrient. I've been experimenting with this idea
over the past few weeks.
--
e-mail: mstrates@croftj.net www: http://www.croftj.net/~mstrates
See keyservers for PGP info. Linux! The OS of my Choice!
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned
skyward, for there you have been, and there you long to return."
- Leonardo da Vinci, and below an extract from John Fogerty's song:
Hey, Tonight - Gonna be tonight- Don't you know I'm flyin'- Tonight
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| Message 31 |
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Subject: Re: Michael's Urine Ideas
From: Dave Miller
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 00:57:10 -0500
Michael,
I'm missing something, I assume you run the uhhh solution through
multiple times or continiously? What exactly is the floss and where
does the powder form? The theory sounds good, can you detail the
specifics even if offline? I would be willing to wait until you have
one up and running.
--
Dave
_______________________________________
«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
A "green" home remodeler
A father of 2 cockatiels
An organic farmer
A veggie drummer/keyboardist
S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775 417-256-5124
Web page http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/
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