Aquaponics Digest - Wed 05/19/99
Message 1: Re: zebra mussels
from "Andrew.D"
Message 2: Re: List of Suppliers
from "Charlie Shultz"
Message 3: Re: Tomatoes
from joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)
Message 4: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
from Dave Miller
Message 5: Re: Seeding
from joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)
Message 6: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
from "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Message 7: Re: Tomatoes
from "vpage"
Message 8: Algae
from S & S Aqua Farm
Message 9: sunshade
from "PJP"
Message 10: RE: HELP my sweet potato and yam
from "Ronald W. Brooks"
Message 11: Re: sunshade
from "KevinLReed"
Message 12: Re: sunshade
from Glen Seibert
Message 13: Re: sunshade
from "KevinLReed"
Message 14: Re: Seeding
from Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta
Message 15: Re: Algae
from Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta
Message 16: Re: Algae
from William Evans
Message 17: Re: Algae
from "Palchik"
Message 18: Re: Algae
from "Palchik"
Message 19: Re: Seeding
from "H. Allen Sylvester"
Message 20: Re: sunshade
from STUNTTMAN
Message 21: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
from "H. Allen Sylvester"
Message 22: Re: Algae
from "Mark Brotman"
Message 23: Re: sunshade
from KLOTTTRUE
Message 24: Re: Algae
from KLOTTTRUE
Message 25: Re: Algae
from "vpage"
Message 26: Re: sunshade
from STUNTTMAN
Message 27: Re: Algae
from Hydro/Aquatic Tech
Message 28: Algae
from Colin Johnston
Message 29: Re: Algae
from "Clark Allison"
Message 30: Re: Seeding
from Craig & Robin Prince
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| Message 1 |
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Subject: Re: zebra mussels
From: "Andrew.D"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 17:36:26 +0930
In Australia the zebra mussels are contained in i.e.. a marina and then
chlorinated and then the chlorine is neutralised. It is very effective,
except that it kills everything else in the lower food chain.
Andrew
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Subject: Re: List of Suppliers
From: "Charlie Shultz"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:10:48 PDT
Yesterday, Ron wrote:
>One of the best investments I made was buying Aquaculture Magazine's 99
>buyers guide. It was $18 and has over a hundred Tilapia suppliers and
>suppliers of most any type of aquatic species you might like to buy.
>
>Ron
>The One Who Walks Two Paths
Better yet, subscribe to Aquaculture magazine for 1 year. The cost is
$21(US) AND you receive the annual Buyer's Guide in December!
FYI,
Charlie
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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Subject: Re: Tomatoes
From: joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:27:19 -0400 (EDT)
Morning...
>The only medium that I have had good success with( no disease and no green
>build up) is coir or coconut fibre. You can buy it in blocks -they expand to
>3 times their size when wet. The coir can be reused and has a natural
Agro-Canada folk had mentioned coconut fibre to me, but they had not had any
experience with it so... You said it can be re-used... how do you sterilize
it??
>antibiotic quality. It wicks moisture and nutrients but allows for oxygen to
>get to the roots if it is not entirely submersed. It holds moisture in dry
>times or does not dry out like other media. Unlike rock wool it is
>completely biodegradable. Except for consideration of the distance it
>travels to get to you it is more economical, financially and
It sounds to be just what I have been looking for. We want to have as
enviromentally friendly place as possible...:) :) :) Thanks for the info...:)
Joy Pye-MacSwain
Futue Aqua Farms
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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
From: Dave Miller
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:49:00 -0400
Jorg,
Cut your taters into sections each containing an eye. This can be hard
and may require waiting until a sweet potato goes to root on its own.
Each potential root is an eye. You should leave a minimum of one growth
mark per section when you cut them up. Let them air dry or "heal" prior
to replanting. They will be more resistant/stubborn compared to potatoes
but can be coaxed given patience. The trick is finding the eyes of the
tuber.
--
Dave
_______________________________________
«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
A "green" home remodeler
A father of 2 cockatiels
An organic farmer
A veggie drummer/keyboardist
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Subject: Re: Seeding
From: joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:37:53 -0400 (EDT)
Morning Adriana,
>I've had excellent results with 100% perlite. My understanding is that
>vermiculite holds more moisture, possibly too much. If you want to use
>it you'll need to mix it with perlite. There are two schools of thought
Is there any advantage to using vermiculite in a mixture with perlite???
perlite alone??? or go with the coir/coconut fibre??? All these posibilities
hummmmmm....:) :) :)
>on seeding: the first is to seed into trays or cell-packs and then
>transplant later into your growing beds. The second is to seed
>directly into your beds at the desired spacing for grow-out. If you
>seed directly into your planting beds you will be trading off less
>handling for reduced greenhouse yield. If space is not at a premium I
>would avoid double-handling if at all possible.
For this first time out I was planning on seeding into cell packs and then
later transplanting into the growing beds... the bosses want a _good_
greenhouse yield for this first run.....:) :) :) I expect that for the next
planting that I will try a couple of the beds with seeding directly into the
growing beds and see if I can quantifify differences in yield, ....not to
mention save myself some work, I hope......always a good thing...:) :) :)
>What type of growing system do you have in mind? Flood & drain,
>nutrient film technique (NFT), perlite drip? That will also influence
>the seeding issue. For example if you plan to grow tomatoes in NFT you
>probably should start the seedlings in rockwool.
We are using a NFT system... ...which, of course brings me back around to
rockwool
or coir fibre????
Thanks for the help
Joy ...still trying to figure things out...:) :)
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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
From: "Jorg D. Ostrowski"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:37:40 -0600 (MDT)
Dave: Thank you for this helpful start. Can I put the sweet potato in a
dish of water to get it to root? How long does it take to "heal"?
Jorg Ostrowski
--------------------------
You said:
Cut your taters into sections each containing an eye. This can be hard
and may require waiting until a sweet potato goes to root on its own.
Each potential root is an eye. You should leave a minimum of one growth
mark per section when you cut them up. Let them air dry or "heal" prior
to replanting. They will be more resistant/stubborn compared to potatoes
but can be coaxed given patience. The trick is finding the eyes of the
tuber.
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| Message 7 |
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Subject: Re: Tomatoes
From: "vpage"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:50:32 -0600
I have never sterilized it.!!
Once the brick is used up, then I break the coir off the roots of the plant
it supported and use what I gather for potting soil. I mix that with my worm
castings, water with fish water... and never have to fertilize at that
stage.It eventually finds it s way to my outside beds where it acts like
peat moss without the mining.
VPage
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Subject: Algae
From: S & S Aqua Farm
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:13:07 -0500
>From: wesleycoggins@webtv.net (wesley coggins)
>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:01:16 -0400 (EDT)
>To: snsaquasys@townsqr.com
>Subject: Algae
>
>Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish
>tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is
>something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish
>and plants growing in my growing beds.
>
>
>Wes & Carole
>
>
S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775 417-256-5124
Web page http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/
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Subject: sunshade
From: "PJP"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:23:10 -0500
I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need some =
help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my plastic =
that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun. We have a homemade =
greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend itself to =
a standard sunscreen. Tempertures are already getting into the 100 =
degree range.
Thanks
Paul Parkey
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Subject: RE: HELP my sweet potato and yam
From: "Ronald W. Brooks"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:23:03 -0400
Jorg
take a sweet potato and lay it in damp sand on it's side , cover with more
damp sand and keep it damp. after a few weeks you will notice shoots
starting to grow from the growing tip. After the shoots reach 4-6 inches
carefully remove them from the potato ( the potato should send out more
shoots ) place the shoots in damp sand until the are well rooted mist with
weak fertilizer solution daily.
Ron
The One Who Walks Two Paths
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: "KevinLReed"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:19:45 -0700
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Bostic enamel or epoxy paint will both stay very well.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: PJP
To: aquaponics@townsqr.com
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:22 AM
Subject: sunshade
=20
=20
I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need =
some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my =
plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun. We have a =
homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend =
itself to a standard sunscreen. Tempertures are already getting into =
the 100 degree range.
Thanks
=20
Paul Parkey
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: Glen Seibert
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:18:57 -0700
PJP wrote:
>
> I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need
> some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my
> plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun. We have a
> homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend
> itself to a standard sunscreen. Tempertures are already getting into
> the 100 degree range.
> Thanks
>
> Paul Parkey
Hi Paul! Here at Fullerton College we just sand-blasted and recoated
our green houses and mist houses with good old fashioned whitewash!
(Go to http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/Glen's%Garden.htm
to get a look at the greenhouse with whitewash.)
As you can see its a bit messy as it runs down the glass and onto the
foundation structures...hada been me I'd have masked off the bricks...
but it gives us about 70% light. I've measured 5000watts luminance at
noon on a hot day, and were at 33:52N / 117:59W.
There are also nylon shade cloths with various weave densities that
give 30, 40 70 and 80 per cent light that work very well but will
require some kind of attatchments to stay in place. The great theng
about them is you can peel them back on a cloudy day...
Good luck!
Glen Seibert
Fullerton College Hydroponics
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: "KevinLReed"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:22:46 -0700
have you thought of bamboo or rattan window blinds or just
covering with shade cloth?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: PJP
To: aquaponics@townsqr.com
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:22 AM
Subject: sunshade
=20
=20
I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need =
some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my =
plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun. We have a =
homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend =
itself to a standard sunscreen. Tempertures are already getting into =
the 100 degree range.
Thanks
=20
Paul Parkey
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Subject: Re: Seeding
From: Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:04:30 -0400
Hi Joy,
One of our extension offices here in Florida just completeed research
using various media alone and in combination with others and concluded
that perlite is as good as the others and more economical. Why mess
with success?
> Is there any advantage to using vermiculite in a mixture with perlite???
> perlite alone??? or go with the coir/coconut fibre??? All these posibilities
> hummmmmm....:) :) :)
What are you growing? Are using trays, troughs, tubes or some other
system?
Adriana
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:06:51 -0400
Organic Gardening reported last month that straw is a good algaecide.
They put the straw in net bags and floated it in ponds.
Adriana
> >Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish
> >tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is
> >something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish
> >and plants growing in my growing beds.
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: William Evans
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:11:38 -0700
barley straw I believe
billevans
Adriana Gutierrez
> Organic Gardening reported last month that straw is a good algaecide.
> They put the straw in net bags and floated it in ponds.
>
>
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: "Palchik"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:40:06 +0300 (IDT)
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: "Palchik"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:47:40 +0300
Yes:
CuSO4 ,0.6ppm, twice:
First at 16.00hs, and the
second one the day after at 8.00hs. good luck
mauricio
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Subject: Re: Seeding
From: "H. Allen Sylvester"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 12:46:14 -0500
A few considerations on the suggested seeding media:
Perlite squashes down and releases beaucoup little flakes of mica, which
may be objectionable floating around in the system. This might
particularly affect filters.
Coir fiber is reported in some cases to be high in salts, unless it is
thoroughly leached. This should be checked before it is put into an
aquaponics system.
Allen
H. Allen Sylvester
Baton Rouge, LA
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: STUNTTMAN
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 14:05:25 EDT
S&S AQUA FARM SELLS A GREENHOUSE SHADING COMPOUND THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOUR
HEAT PROBLEM. IT IS ABOUT 125.00$ FOR 5 GALLONS. DILUTION RATE OF 8-1 IS
RECOMENDED. YOU CAN SPRAY IT ON WITH A PUMP UP INSECTICIDE SPRAYER.I HAVE IT
ON MY POLY COVERED GREENHOUSE NOW IN SOUTHERN CA AND IT WORKS GREAT.
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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam
From: "H. Allen Sylvester"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:37:00 -0500
Jorg,
If you really want to see what your sweet potato is doing, you can
stand it up and put three toothpicks spaced evenly around it such that
you can put it in a jar of water covering the bottom one-third or so of
the potato. The tricky part is choosing the top, since the plant does
care. The end that was attached to the plant has most of the buds and
should be the *top*. It usually has a thicker stem entering it and is
often more pointed. Then put it in a warm, well-lighted place.
The sprouts are reasonably drought tolerant and are field planted - in
the sun - with no roots. They wilt and then establish themselves. They
probably might establish faster with roots, but roots are a hassle to
deal with in the field and it takes time to allow roots to develop.
They should get at least about 6 inches tall to 10 inches, so they have
built up some energy reserves from the potato.
Allen
H. Allen Sylvester
Baton Rouge, LA
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: "Mark Brotman"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 15:20:08 -0400
Hmm-- your message seems to have been blank... it was ??
Palchik wrote:
--
Mark J. Brotman
Aquaculturist
CropKing
5050 Greenwich Rd.
Seville, OH 44273
Tel: 330/769-2002, Fax: 330/769-2616
Email: mbrotman@cropking.com
On the web at http://www.cropking.com
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: KLOTTTRUE
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 17:44:02 EDT
In a message dated 5/19/99 4:39:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
STUNTTMAN writes:
<< S&S AQUA FARM SELLS A GREENHOUSE SHADING COMPOUND THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF
YOUR
HEAT PROBLEM. IT IS ABOUT 125.00$ FOR 5 GALLONS. DILUTION RATE OF 8-1 IS
RECOMENDED. YOU CAN SPRAY IT ON WITH A PUMP UP INSECTICIDE SPRAYER.I HAVE IT
ON MY POLY COVERED GREENHOUSE NOW IN SOUTHERN CA AND IT WORKS GREAT.
>>
What percentage of light does it block out,and is it permanent? Ken
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: KLOTTTRUE
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 17:58:34 EDT
In a message dated 5/19/99 1:29:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
snsaquasys@townsqr.com writes:
<< From: wesleycoggins@webtv.net (wesley coggins)
>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:01:16 -0400 (EDT)
>To: snsaquasys@townsqr.com
>Subject: Algae
>
>Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish
>tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is
>something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish
>and plants growing in my growing beds.
>
>>
Use 3 ounces of Barley straw per square yard of water surface area,you can
use wheat straw also,just double the amount. for on going mantinence,place
half that amount every six months.Are you sure you're giving the covering
time enough to work? I had the same problem,after a few cloudy days,the Algae
disappeared.Ken
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: "vpage"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 17:53:20 -0600
We cannot continue to solve these problems this way. There are kinder ways.
VPage
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Subject: Re: sunshade
From: STUNTTMAN
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:45:46 EDT
There are 3 different kinds of shading compound.they range from permanent to
very temporary.the temp washes after one rain.perm is good for a whole
season.the dillution rate also affects how much shading you get, i mix mine
at about 5-1 for more shade.
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: Hydro/Aquatic Tech
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:55:23 -0400
Blocking the light from the algae (not just shading it,
blocking it) WILL knock out algae. But as with most natural
methods, it does take a few days. Beware blockage of pipes,
possible jammed impellers on the pumps, and drop in D.O. due
to mass die-offs.
One of my commercial customers just went through a bad spate
of Tilapia fry (pop-ups to 1 gram) loss. This commercial
breeder has been in operation for several years, and is
quite experienced with her system.
The only major change in the system was the addition of
several fairly small windows high up the wall in an
otherwise totally sealed and insulated building last fall.
After much head shaking and hand-wringing (and the loss of
several thousand fry) we finally diagnosed the problem to
the growth of semi toxic algae in the systems. It seems that
as the sun changed its angle in the early spring it began to
shine through the windows for several hours a day, directly
into the tanks. The combination of direct lighting and
higher than normal nitrate levels from farm run-off into the
local groundwater led to the growth of the algae. Once we
blocked the light from the windows and drastically dropped
the inside illumination the algae died off in about 5 days.
She is now back to producing thousands of healthy fry.
(note: this area (Chesapeake Bay area) is known for toxic
algae including Pfesteria (sp?) which caused several major
(10,000+) fish kills in local waters two years ago, and lose
of memory functions in several people working in the local
waters.)
Best regards,
Scott Jones
Hydro/Aquatic Technologies
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Subject: Algae
From: Colin Johnston
Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:12:56 +0800
Check this site below if interested :
http://www.execpc.com/~aqsys/barley.html
Colin
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| Message 29 |
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Subject: Re: Algae
From: "Clark Allison"
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:35:43 PDT
In reference to algae in an outside pond. I have sort of a "gazing pond"
lined with limestone over plastic. I have stocked it with goldfish which
seem to be doing fine. However the algae is getting heavy. I keep dipping
it out but I thought there might be a fish that would eat the algae. Please
respond.
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| Message 30 |
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Subject: Re: Seeding
From: Craig & Robin Prince
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:41:48 -0700
Hello Adrana
About your perlite system- I'm guessing you are using Ebb & Flow?
Also What is your cycling times. Perlite sounds much easier to work with.
Any problems with keeping bactiria health?
Thanks Craig
Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta wrote:
S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775 417-256-5124
Web page http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/
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