Aquaponics Digest - Sun 05/13/01
Message 1: A cheap greenhouse design
from "TGTX"
Message 2: An Extensive List of Greenhouse Kits
from "TGTX"
Message 3: Re: Mold
from "TGTX"
Message 4: Aphid Management
from "TGTX"
Message 5: Re: Mold
from "TGTX"
Message 6: Re: Mold
from "TGTX"
Message 7: Re: Mold
from "TGTX"
Message 8: Tomato Plant Problems FAQ by Kay Klier
from "TGTX"
Message 9: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
from Darren Pearce
Message 10: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
from Darren Pearce
Message 11: Re: A cheap greenhouse design
from "TGTX"
Message 12: Re: A cheap greenhouse design
from marc 'at' aculink.net
Message 13: Re: a couple questions
from fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)
Message 14: K2CO3
from laberge 'at' cil.qc.ca (LABERGE MARC)
Message 15: Re: K2CO3
from "Southin Farms"
Message 16: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
from "billevans"
Message 17: bio-digester home experiment. Comments?
from Darren Pearce
Message 18: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
from Darren Pearce
| Message 1
Subject: A cheap greenhouse design
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:24:21 -0500
Hundred bucks or so. 'Bout right for a backyard hobby system.
http://www.ns.net/~bennu/
| Message 2
Subject: An Extensive List of Greenhouse Kits
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:42:21 -0500
An Extensive List of Greenhouse Kits.
Also, check out the rest of the website
Cruise around there.
Enjoy.
http://www.greenhousegarden.com/kit%20sellers.htm
| Message 3
Subject: Re: Mold
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:48:20 -0500
>
> >Hey everyone,
> >I have a mold on my tomatoes, anyone know a non chem. way of getting rid
> of it. It is >only on the ones in one growing bed.
> >Steve(red)
>
> Howdy, Steve (red)
>
> Could you try a dilute hydrogen peroxide mist or compost tea spray? What
> have you tried so far, Mr. Steve?
>
> Ted
How about this resource for plant pest and disease diagnosis?
http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/
Hope that helps.
Ted
| Message 4
Subject: Aphid Management
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:03:30 -0500
Texas A&M Aphid Management Article
http://extension-horticulture.tamu.edu/greenhouse/pest/bdaphid.html
| Message 5
Subject: Re: Mold
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:14:03 -0500
Howdy Steve (red):
Here is a site for tomato disease images, to confirm what you think you
might have a problem with:
http://www.kcinter.net/~mule/Tomato/diseases/d_img.html
And here is a heirarchical key to narrowing down the disease problem:
http://www.kcinter.net/~mule/Tomato/d_out1.html
Hope this helps.
> >
> > >Hey everyone,
> > >I have a mold on my tomatoes, anyone know a non chem. way of getting
rid
> > of it. It is >only on the ones in one growing bed.
> > >Steve(red)
| Message 6
Subject: Re: Mold
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:23:40 -0500
> >
> > >Hey everyone,
> > >I have a mold on my tomatoes, anyone know a non chem. way of getting
rid
> > of it. It is >only on the ones in one growing bed.
> > >Steve(red)
Another disease control website with images of various plant diseases to
compare
http://plant-disease.orst.edu/index.htm
This site contains the alphabetical (A to Z) text sections of the 2000
Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook, part of the OSU
Extension Plant Pathology slide collection, as well as photographs taken by
our colleagues. Additional articles from the handbook have been incorporated
into the "Pathogens and Pesticides" section of this site.
Control recommendations are based on the unique mix of climate, crops,
regulations and growers of the Pacific Northwest and may not be applicable
in other areas.
The new 2001 PNW Plant Disease Management Handbook are now available. You
may purchase the 2001 PNW Plant Disease Management Handbook by contacting:
Publication Orders, Extension and Experiment Station Commnications, Oregon
State University, 422 Kerr Administration, Corvallis, OR, 97331-2119
FAX:541-737-0817
E-Mail: puborder 'at' orst.edu
or the Publications and Videos Web Site
| Message 7
Subject: Re: Mold
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:03:57 -0500
Fungal diseases of tomatoes listed on this pretty groovy website from
University of Arizona:
http://ag.arizona.edu/hydroponictomatoes/fungal.htm
Also, you can practice your knowledge of tomato vine pruning at this
"interactive" page:
http://ag.arizona.edu/hydroponictomatoes/pruning.htm
Subject: Re: Mold
| Message 8
Subject: Tomato Plant Problems FAQ by Kay Klier
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:05:45 -0500
More on Tomato Plant Diagnostics
http://is.rice.edu/~shel/tomato.html
| Message 9
Subject: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
From: Darren Pearce
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 13:30:37 -0400
Hello All
Last year We used this design (only slightly modified) and I'd like to make a
couple of comments and suggestions that may help any of you who decide to go
this route.I should note that this was our introduction to greenhouse growing
and while we had some issues, the experiment was a huge success.So much so,
that now our dreams revolve around something somewhat larger
. say 30 x 90
LOL.
First:
We live in a fairly windy locale, a peninsula on the Olympic peninsula(Wa).
We used 10 ft sections of pipe joined with couplers.2-3 of the couplers faied
during a spring windstorm causing me to take drastic measures (duct tape on
all connections)to ensure the integrity of the G-house.A late fall windstorm
took advantage of the stresses created in the poly cover and proceded to shred
it. THEREFORE I suggest using full length pipe and bypassing the fittings all
together.
Secondly:
We used 4 mil standard poly (not greenhouse poly)due to budget
constraints.This probably played a significant role in the demise of the
unit.This year we went with 6 mil and I'll gladly report results as the season
progresses.We have had 50 mph winds so far without a hint of damage.
Now, on to the mods for this years (Oasis MK-2) unit.We needed more room using
the same foot print, so we made two changes.We sunk 2 treated 4 x 4 post,
centered on each end to support a ridge beam.We then framed a north wall out
of 2 x 4 lumber approx 3-4 inches higher than the ridge.The result, a poly
half tunnel which should be fairly easy to insulate(an inside layer of 2 mil)
come fall.We are quite pleased to date if you disreguard the family quarrels
over who plants what, where.
Aquaponica??? My first module should come online today.A common feeder
goldfish powered, course media (lava rock) top feed system.Wish me luck!
sincerely
Darren
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| Message 10
Subject: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
From: Darren Pearce
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 13:31:52 -0400
Hello All
Last year We used this design (only slightly modified) and I'd like to make a
couple of comments and suggestions that may help any of you who decide to go
this route.I should note that this was our introduction to greenhouse growing
and while we had some issues, the experiment was a huge success.So much so,
that now our dreams revolve around something somewhat larger
. say 30 x 90
LOL.
First:
We live in a fairly windy locale, a peninsula on the Olympic peninsula(Wa).
We used 10 ft sections of pipe joined with couplers.2-3 of the couplers faied
during a spring windstorm causing me to take drastic measures (duct tape on
all connections)to ensure the integrity of the G-house.A late fall windstorm
took advantage of the stresses created in the poly cover and proceded to shred
it. THEREFORE I suggest using full length pipe and bypassing the fittings all
together.
Secondly:
We used 4 mil standard poly (not greenhouse poly)due to budget
constraints.This probably played a significant role in the demise of the
unit.This year we went with 6 mil and I'll gladly report results as the season
progresses.We have had 50 mph winds so far without a hint of damage.
Now, on to the mods for this years (Oasis MK-2) unit.We needed more room using
the same foot print, so we made two changes.We sunk 2 treated 4 x 4 post,
centered on each end to support a ridge beam.We then framed a north wall out
of 2 x 4 lumber approx 3-4 inches higher than the ridge.The result, a poly
half tunnel which should be fairly easy to insulate(an inside layer of 2 mil)
come fall.We are quite pleased to date if you disreguard the family quarrels
over who plants what, where.
Aquaponica??? My first module should come online today.A common feeder
goldfish powered, course media (lava rock) top feed system.Wish me luck!
sincerely
Darren
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| Message 11
Subject: Re: A cheap greenhouse design
From: "TGTX"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 14:27:39 -0500
> Aquaponica??? My first module should come online today.A common feeder
> goldfish powered, course media (lava rock) top feed system.Wish me luck!
> sincerely
> Darren
Cool. Great post. All good info for the group to ponder and consider,
compare.
Good Luck on the Inaugural Goldfish Voyage.
Ted
| Message 12
Subject: Re: A cheap greenhouse design
From: marc 'at' aculink.net
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 14:04:33 -0600
We discovered even with the 6 mil stuff in a high enough
wind the poly immediately opposite the wind direction on the
downward side of the roof peak will bubble up and eventually
stretch/fail. Seems to be a low pressure area like an
airplane wing and has significant upward lift.
HIGHLY reccomend the use of some type of poly lock down
strips on at least the upper third of the arches on BOTH
sides since winds can shift. They can be had VERY
economically and will pay for themselves during the first
windstorm.
http://www.aculink.net/~marc/greenhouse/greenhouse.htm
The backbone idea is virtually bulletproof. Our 30 by 95
2"PVC arched greenhouse withstood winds with no problem
until the poly let loose.
Our greenhouse did not have the side rails and crosspieces
anchored to the center backbone posts installed yet and all
the PVC did was to bend inwards. It was not damaged and
reused without replacement and bent outward again with no
problem.
Again -- the poly hold down strips are invaluable.
Marc
.> Secondly:
> We used 4 mil standard poly (not greenhouse poly)due to budget
> constraints.This probably played a significant role in the demise of the
> unit.This year we went with 6 mil and I'll gladly report results as the season
> progresses.We have had 50 mph winds so far without a hint of damage.
| Message 13
Subject: Re: a couple questions
From: fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 15:17:31 -0500 (CDT)
Devon as male tilapia mature and come into breeding condition they will
get a red blush in their less pigmented areas and around the fin edges
depending on the race that you have you can also see the fins extend and
come to points on the males
Bruce
| Message 14
Subject: K2CO3
From: laberge 'at' cil.qc.ca (LABERGE MARC)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:07:38 -0400
Does anyone know if there's a common name for potassium bicarbonate ? I 'm
having a very hard time trying to find the stuff.
Marc Laberge
Mont Tremblant
Quebec , Canada
| Message 15
Subject: Re: K2CO3
From: "Southin Farms"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 16:43:37 -0700
Potassium Carbonate is K2CO3
Potassium Bicarbonate is KHCO3
Only manufacturer in USA is
http://www.armandproducts.com/index.html
southin
----- Original Message -----
From: "LABERGE MARC"
To: "aqua"
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: K2CO3
> Does anyone know if there's a common name for potassium bicarbonate ? I 'm
> having a very hard time trying to find the stuff.
> Marc Laberge
> Mont Tremblant
> Quebec , Canada
>
>
| Message 16
Subject: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
From: "billevans"
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:21:47 -0700
the uv willl kill it in a few months
.do you like reskinning the g/house
twice a year?
or are you planning to paint it?
> We used 4 mil standard poly (not greenhouse poly)due to budget
> constraints.This probably played a significant role in the demise of the
> unit.This year we went with 6 mil and I'll gladly report results as the
season
> progresses.We have had 50 mph winds so far without a hint of damage.
| Message 17
Subject: bio-digester home experiment. Comments?
From: Darren Pearce
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:41:36 -0400
As long as I've "de-lurked", I may as well pass this idea along for the
purpose of inviting comments/critique.
My curiosity was piqued by the bio-digester thread and I would like to trial a
small, inexpensive system.I've been thinking along the lines of.
Construct a small manifold to accept 1/4" tubing and drill/tap the bucket lids
to accept the 1/4" tubing as well.Begin the process by filling a bucket with a
manure based slurry and sealing the top.The methane/vent tube runs (via the
manifold) into yet another bucket where it is bubbled thru a liquid
(water???)to prevent air flow back into the digester bucket prior to traveling
to an outdoor vent or collection bag.
Each week another bucket is added to the system until week 9 or 10, when the
process is deemed complete.At this point the bio-fertilizer is harvested to
the tune of 5 gallons a week and the rotation begins.
Am I missing something or should this work?
ALSO: I've considered simply installing an aquarium airline check-valve into
the lid of each bucket which may negate the need to bubble the resultant gas
thru a the last bucket
. thoughts??
MORE: Several brave buttercrunch lettuce starts, a supersweet 100 tomato and a
jalapeno hybrid are now enjoying their first taste of goldfish poop.Everything
looks great with no wilting at all.I'm STOKED!
Excitedly
Darren
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| Message 18
Subject: RE: A cheap greenhouse design
From: Darren Pearce
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 21:09:58 -0400
"billevans" wrote
> the uv willl kill it in a few months
.do you like reskinning the g/house
>twice a year?
>or are you planning to paint it?
Actually Bill, you caught me in an ommission
. I could not afford the added
cost of UV resistant greenhouse film this spring no matter how hard i juggled
the books.When the tattered remnants are replaced with the "correct" material,
I'll use the remains to skin cold frames etc. to keep it out of the landfill.
As things look now, I'd be reticent to paint the 6 mil due to it's lowered
light transmission.Am I wrong?
Also a correction: the lettuce is "great lakes".
Your's truly
Darren
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